MEXICO 

When Spanish explorers in the early 16th century set eyes on the Aztec capital Tenochtitlan, today Mexico City, they were amazed by what they found -- a beautiful city, larger and more impressive than most European cities of that era. This city of magnificently adorned edifices, wide avenues, vast esplanades, open-air markets and astonishing temples was the commercial and ceremonial center of a civilization that could already trace its history some 3,000 years.

These same structures were soon razed to make way for others of Spanish influence, the changing landscape reflecting the changing realities of life in the New World. Yet, in spite of the conquistadors' best efforts to destroy Mexico's pre-Hispanic past, it is still very much alive among the more than 20 million native Mexicans around the country who preserve their ancient traditions, and speak nearly 60 languages and dialects, and in numerous archaeological sites. Found throughout the country, these enduring monuments belong to Mexico's varied pre-Hispanic civilizations, though by far the best known are those built by the Maya.

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Thousands of years ago, the Maya forged a civilization now considered one of the most important ever to exist in the ancient world. They built sprawling cities, created an extensive trade network and made breakthroughs in the arts and sciences that placed them leagues ahead of their contemporaries. Then, mysteriously, their culture went into decline and their cities were abandoned.

The areas the Maya ruled -- Guatemala, Belize, Honduras, El Salvador and the five Mexican states of Chiapas, Tabasco, Yucatan, Quintana Roo and Campeche -- are collectively referred to as the Mundo Maya in Spanish, or Maya World.

To appreciate and understand a little more about the ancient Maya and their civilization, travelers can visit the remnants of some of their cities and ceremonial centers, with their great temples and pyramids.

In the Yucatan, Chichen-Itza boasts the Kukulcan Pyramid, where twice a year the afternoon sun produces the shadow of a serpent descending the steps; and Uxmal is famous for the intricate stone carvings that decorate its temples and palaces.

Chiapas is home to the ancient city of Palenque, believed to have been a royal burial ground; Bonampak, famous for its murals depicting court life, battles and religious ceremonies 2,000 years ago; and Yaxchilan, a lovely city overlooking the Usumacinta River, deep in the heart of the Lacandon rain forest.

In Quintana Roo, the clifftop fortress of Tulum is the only walled city the Mayas built and the only one overlooking the Caribbean.

The La Venta archaeological park in Villahermosa, capital of Tabasco, showcases the giant stone heads belonging to the Olmec civilization, an early mother culture which influenced later groups, including the Maya.

Campeche is just beginning to reveal its archaeological treasures, such as Calakmul, perhaps the largest Maya site found to date, Chicanna, Becan and Xpuhil.

The very heart of Mexico City served as the center of Tenochtitlan, the capital of the Aztecs. It contained palaces, pyramids and temples, including the Templo Mayor, or Great Temple. When completed in 1487, the Templo Mayor consisted of seven superimposed structures, each making the temple larger and more magnificent. The dedication ceremony lasted four days and several thousand victims were sacrificed.

The pyramids of Teotihuacan, 31 miles northeast of Mexico City, are one of the country's most popular tourist attractions and its first true city. Teotihuacan's monuments were built as flat-topped bases for ceremonial temples reaching high into the sky, to be near the gods.

Another archaeological site in central Mexico is located on a mountainside in Malinalco, southeast of Toluca. Over 400 steps lead up to the site, but it is well worth the effort. Malinalco was once a ceremonial center for Aztec warriors. The circular temple is renowned for its magnificent jaguar and eagle figures carved out of the mountain.

South of Cuernavaca, a popular weekend retreat for Mexico City residents, is Xochicalco, an impressive mountainside archaeological site that honors the Plumed Serpent.

The town of Tepoztlan, just 25 minutes from Cuernavaca or one hour from Mexico City, is home to the ruins of a temple dedicated to the god Tepoztecatl, the god of pulque, a still popular fermented drink made from the spiky maguey plant.

About five miles west of Puebla, which is about a two-hour drive from Mexico City, lies Cholula. Predating Teotihuacan by perhaps 400 years, it was still an active spiritual center at the time of the conquest in 1521, and has the world's largest pyramid, covering 46 acres.

About 13 miles southwest of Tlaxcala is the archaeological site of Cacaxtla, featuring frescoes depicting scenes of a fierce battle between Maya and Central Mexican warriors.

The Zapotec and Mixtec were parallel cultures that developed and flourished in the Valley of Oaxaca from about 500 A.D. to the 16th century. The magnificent ceremonial centers of Monte Albán and Mitla are a testament to their skill as builders and artists. Monte Alban, or White Hill, is situated on a mountain plateau 1,200 feet above the city, and boasts exquisitely carved stone walls. East of Oaxaca city is the archaeological site of Mitla. An outstanding architectural feature is the stepped-fret design in carvings and mosaic work. Experts believe it is a representation of the Sky Serpent, a variation of the omnipresent Quetzalcoatl.

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The crown jewel of Gulf Coast archaeology, El Tajin, is located 157 miles north of Veracruz, near the vanilla-producing town of Papantla. Overlooked by the eagle-eyed Spaniards, the site remained unknown to Europeans until 1785. The Pyramid of the Niches is considered one of the ancient world's most beautiful buildings. Ball court friezes show the relationship between the players and the gods, including ritual sacrifice.

Northwest of Chihuahua city (or southwest of Ciudad Juarez) lies the most important archaeological zone in the north, the ruins of the city of Paquimé. Many aspects of the Paquimé culture, which reached its zenith during the 11th century, are similar to those of Amerindian groups of the American southwest. Since excavation began, the remnants of the four-, sometimes five-story adobe buildings garnered the site the name of Casas Grandes (Large Houses), a label used to designate both the ruins and the now famous Paquimé-style black-and-red striped pottery.